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  Yin Yoga Retreat in Bhutan  
By Amy Cleghorn

Through the pages of history the Himalayan mountains and the surrounding areas have been home to many gods. The area beckons visits from monks, mystics, scholars and modern day travelers, all drawn to the energy and majesty this area holds. Nestled in these mountains, bathed in this energy is Bhutan, a country whose people live by the teachings of the Buddha, whilst contributing to the 21st century global community. How the country and its people find this balance was something I had always wanted to explore. When I found out that my teacher Victor Chng was organizing a Yin Yoga retreat to Bhutan I knew that my dream of visiting was about to come true.

Victor is a renowned Yin Yoga Teacher who works mainly in Asia. He has lead 5 previous retreats to Bhutan and Nepal, but this one was a little different. 'A Journey of Awakening intended for people who are keen to understand more about Buddhism and receive spiritual coaching based on Buddhist Philosophy' his website explains. Elaborating on this Victor said he is 'creating an opportunity for all participants to delve deeper into the practice of Yin Yoga as well as taking time to completely immerse yourself within a Buddhist culture.' Allowing one to learn more about Buddhism simply 'by being in a place where you can settle down and work on the conditioning of the mind'. Sounds perfect doesn't it.

I met the group in Bangkok then we all flew out to Bhutan early the next morning. Landing in Paro (which currently houses the only international airport) we went directly to the accommodation, Nak-Sel Hotel & Spa, deriving its name from the Dzongka translation - 'forest'. The hotel is so well hidden in the forest that you can't see it from the road, yet there was unparalleled views of the Paro valley, Taktsang Monastery & Mount Jumolhari – the only thing obscuring it from time to time was the fast moving cloud hovering over the peaks of the mountains. Paro sits at approximately 2300m above sea level, whilst some of the highest peaks of Bhutan reach nearly 6500m. It really was the perfect place to land after many hours of travel.

Starting practice that afternoon Victor encouraged us to create a space that was conducive to retreat. A space where our daily life doesn't need to enter, meaning that we leave mobile phones, facebook, twitter and email accounts at the door! 'A retreat is the opportunity to withdraw' he said. 'You've given yourself this time to enter a new cycle. Allow it to take form, to take shape. A new cycle is being cultivated into your life that you can take back with you.' I was so thankful for those words, realising that the power of the practice can sometimes be forgotten when I squeeze it in before work then rush off into another busy day. By being here I was creating a space for that to no longer happen.

For the next 5 days we participated in two powerful sessions of yoga a day. Waking up to a 2 hour Yin/Yang class and closing the day with a Yin class, then meditation. In-between having plenty of time for rest and contemplation, as well as the opportunity to sit with one of Bhutan's most esteemed Buddhist scholars, Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi. Khenpo is a Buddhist monk who also holds a master's degree in Buddhist Philosophy. He has been teaching meditation and Buddhism for more than fifteen years and is currently also the Director of the National Museum in Paro. His message was clear; that through living the teachings of the Buddha; cultivating a sense of contentment in our lives, practicing non-violence and always putting the community first we can bring powerful change to our lives.

This beautiful message was reiterated to me by a Bhutanese guide who accompanied us on a walk through the forest when he said 'to make a prayer more powerful you must first pray for the sangha (community), then your family, then yourself. If you pray only for your self, then that is greedy'. The words resonated so deeply. I smiled inwardly, appreciating these humble words from a humble man, as they exactly echoed those of an esteemed monk. The Bhutanese people live the teachings of the Buddha. In a country that abides by ahimsa (non-violence), there is peacefulness that I've never felt anywhere else. There is a contentedness here that I have often searched for within myself. They know their connection to the universe and don't have to travel anywhere to find it.

During a break one day I was able to visit the memorial house of a very highly regarded reincarnate monk of the 20th century, Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche, as it was near our accommodation. He became the principal teacher of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, the Bhutanese Royal Family as well as countless disciples & students. Subsequently he was known as a master among masters. He worked tirelessly to preserve and share the texts of all Buddhist lineages. Teaching them often late into the night, as often as there was someone to teach, with many students travelling a long way to sit with him. This week having learnt that 'the Buddha mind is the union of compassion and wisdom.' I could see that Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche was the complete embodiment of the Buddha mind, only now understanding why his life continues to provide inspiration for those stepping on the spiritual path.

Understanding the teachings was one thing. I was beginning to feel a little unsure as to how successfully I would implement them into my life back home. So it was perfect timing when Victor discussed during class one day that we all have the opportunity for renewal every day. 'On a daily basis when we try to form a new pattern in action we must also form a new pattern of the mind. We educate the new cells (that are created everyday) with our new habits. Are they new habits? Or are we teaching these new cells old negative patterns.' An insight to the power of daily practice had just unfolded in my lap. I had control over how this new cycle will be cultivated into my life, and it could unfold gently on a day by day basis. It's practice right. That's why we do it daily.

On the second last day of the trip we were granted a very rare opportunity to meet with the 7th reincarnate of Gyalse Tenzin Rabgybe, a young man by the name of Jigme Tenzin Wangpo who resides at Tango Monastery, which was founded in the 13th century and is now a renowned Buddhist College.

The walk to the monastery was picturesque. It took about an hour and a half, using a well-trodden forest track. We passed some monks on their way down the hill, the younger ones sometimes stopping to talk and practice their English. Then as we got higher we passed many smiling pilgrims – just like us – still wrapped in a white silk scarf, which is the traditional ceremonial offering. Reaching the top, we were met by the assistant monks who immediately offered us juice and a place to rest. My heart smiled at the humble nature of such esteemed monks. Another lesson in the teachings of the Buddha played out before my eyes. To be in Bhutan is a dream come true. To receive Jigme Tenzin's blessings was an added, unexpected honour. The rainfall that accompanied us on the walk back down the hill we saw as an auspicious sign that this was indeed the beginning of a new cycle for all of us.

Saving the best till last we were yet to walk up to Taktsang Monastery. Taktsang translates to Tigers Lair (hence why it's commonly referred to as Tigers Nest). This monastery has been build around the cave where Guru Rinpoche (who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan) meditated for many months after arriving in Bhutan on the back of a legendary tigress. Part of the magic of Taktsang is where it sits - precariously perched on the side of a mountain. Besides the engineering genius of its location, the history of this monastery makes it one of the most revered in Bhutan. As you near the entrance the hundreds of prayer flags that flap in welcome waves over the valley are just as sweet as the juice we received at Tango. Quickly turning the physical and mental challenge of the almost 2 hour walk, up 900m to a faint memory.

It was originally built in 1692, by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye. (the reincarnate of which we had met the day before at Tango). Taktsang houses some of the greatest relics in Bhutan, carried across from Tibet in the 7th Century. It is indeed a privilege to have the heavy doors unlocked so that we were able to see some of the treasures. Cameras are strictly forbidden inside the monastery's, making this journey truly one of heart & mind. I just breathed it all in, remembering the energy of the temples as much as the beautiful paintings and sacred relics on display.

The Bhutanese Government is adamant about protecting these treasures. So much so that tourist numbers continue to be strictly monitored. One must remember that access is not always given. Making this Kingdom of Bhutan a precious jewel in itself.

This trip allowed me to witness a richness of spiritual life I'd been trying to establish for myself. There is total integration of purpose, understanding and practice here in Bhutan. After briefly being within a community so steeped in tradition & spirituality I walked away enriched and altered in my thinking and practice. As the Buddha once said 'I have shown you the path to liberation. You should understand that your liberation depends on yourself.' I see now that it can only happen day by day.

All words and photographs by Amy Cleghorn. Amy is a Yin Yoga teacher who loves photography. She shares her time between Melbourne and Perth, Australia. As often as possible she is out, camera in hand, exploring the world. She can be contacted at amy.cleghorn@gmail.com

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